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Every day starts with enjoying a cup of "Volcanica Coffee" as we dive in to God's Word. Read the Bible daily with us and join the conversation on "The Daily Way". Then we take a walk around our "neighborhood". We get off the treadmill and exercise our minds as well as our bodies. We dive-in to a different city each week as we strive to look "beyond the bricks" to gain a unique perspective for well-known sites, as well as for sites where there is nothing to "see". Knowing the back-story is what makes a site interesting. When a site has multiple back-stories, it gets really interesting. Without the back-story, ruins are confusing, buildings are just bricks, and you have no perspective on that which is no longer there. "The Daily Walk" is not a guide book, although we have those resources available to you. click Here for guides to over 700 cities worldwide including the city featured in this week's walks. Each day we will provide you with a Google map with a pinpoint of the location for our walk. Drag and drop the little guy into the map and take a look around for yourself. There will be a lot to see; too much for us to cover in this blog. We are going to focus on just one story each day. Monday through Thursday we will present a back-story "seen" on our walk through the "Week A'Way city. On Friday we'll venture out on a side-trip to a nearby attraction. Saturday, our back-story will focus on the culture, souvenir shopping, or food and wine. On Sunday, we'll look at the back-story of a "church". Many well-known churches have become more of a museum and a sight-seeing destination than a place of worship. When this is the case, the building is just a big pile of bricks. We'll look beyond the bricks to see the place as it was originally intended.
Spend this "Week A'Way" with us
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English, Italian, or Latin  Click on the Map to see the walk from the Duomo to St. Mark's or St. James If you would like to attend church with services conducted in English, St Mark's has a sung high mass at 10;30 and St James has a service with Eucharist at 9:00. Both are Anglican churches, and both churches date back to the 1800's. No churches other than the Catholic chuch was allowed in Florence until around 1849. If you want to attend a Catholic service, there are many venues from which to choose, including some that we have no doubt already been to during our site-seeing earlier in the week. For a special experience in Florence, attend the 10:30 mass at Santa Maria dei Fiore (that's the massive, can't miss, cathedral capped by Brunelleschi's dome, dominating the skyline of Florence, otherwise known as the Duomo). This service is conducted in Latin and includes Gregorian chanting. You won't understand a lot, but the experience will put you in the shoes of an Florencian living during the Renaisssance. Most people were illiterate and didn't understand most of the Latin either. So, like them, you can learn stuff that's "off the wall" (and the ceiling,, the sculptures, etc.)  Break Bread and Share Wine
Wine Tasting and Dinner at a Private Tuscan Villa from Florence by Viator
Your tour will begin in central Florence near Santa Maria Novella Station, where you’ll hop aboard your minivan with your guide. Travel a short distance outside of the city center to reach the scenic vineyards and olive groves that surround the 17th-century villa. Take a tour of the picturesque grounds with the villa’s winemaker and listen to some of the secrets of the trade. Hear about the villa’s production process and learn how blends are created from merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese and pinot bianco grapes. Then, toast cin cin! Sample the villa’s limited-edition red, white and dessert wine, soaking up the characteristics of each. Afterward, take a seat in the gardens if the weather is clear, or inside the villa for a 4-course feast. Savor local specialties such as crostini, parmesan and Pienza pecorino cheese, prosciutto ham, a traditional meat dish and pasta, with vegetarian options available. Take in the villa’s panoramic views while you dine on the fresh ingredients of Tuscan classics. Don’t forget to save room for the traditional Italian dessert served after dinner. Your evening out will conclude with a smooth ride back to your original departure point in Florence. Shopping / Souvenirs
You have no doubt already acquired your miniature statue of David and your little Leaning Tower of Pisa; these are great for your knickknack shelf to remind you of the great times you had during your week in Tuscany. I know you'd love to take home some of the great Italian wines that you've tasted here, but US customs puts a strict limit on importing alcohol. Check Wine Awesomeness for wines from around the world delivered to your home.
 Don't Lean on Me Click on the Map to see the walk from The Leaning Tower around Pisa Viator's Semi-Independent Afternoon Tour by Bus from Florence See the highlights of Pisa with this 5-hour independent tour of the city from Florence. Listen to informative commentary from a host/guide on board the bus on the trip to Pisa. Enjoy the freedom to explore Pisa at your own pace, including the leaning tower and cathedral.
What you will see/not see: The bus will deliver you to the Piazza dei Miracoli (the place where the bell tower leans). Our walk takes us from the Plaza of Miracles to the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights Square), across the Arno river on the newly constructed oldest bridge in Pisa, to the little church Santa Maria della Spina (Saint Mary of the Spine), and then back to the tipsy tower by way of the botanical gardens. After you have seen the tower and taken the obligatory pictures of you holding up the tower, or pushing the tower over, and the obligatory picture of all the tourists doing the same thing... take a tour of the cathedral and the baptistery. In the Duomo museum, you can see the original art and sculptures that have been removed from the areas buildings and replaced with replicas. In the museum of the Sinopias you can look "beyond the frescoes". World War 2 bombing shook the plaster off the frescoed walls revealing the artists original sketches. At he back of the Piazza you'll find a peaceful courtyard which is cqlled the Camposanto Cemetery. The back story here is that centuries ago before silting moved the coast miles away, Pisa was a port. In the 13th century shiploads of dirt were brought from Golgotha (the site of the crucifixion of Jesus) by crusaders to Pisa to create this holy cemetery. I don't understand the draw to this holy dirt, as Jesus was not buried in the ground but rather in a cave or tomb. And ironically, I don't see anyone buried in this dirt in Pisa either. The cloisters around the dirt have the tombs and sarcophagi. The highlight would be the fresco "The Triumph of Death from the 14th century. We'll venture away from the Plaza of miracles to make a loop around the northern part of Pisa. We won't see anything else as impressive as a tower that leans (or will we? A lot of buildings lean in this part of Italy). What we will see is a charming Tuscan town with fewer tourists than Florence and definitely fewer tourist than at the Plaza of Miracles. Busloads of tourists arrive at the Piazza dei Miracoli with nary enough time to see as much as we have already seen. Our 5 hour journey will allow us plenty of time to see the town. At the Knights Square we'll see a large piazza that was used as a training ground for the knights of the navy in the 1500's. A statue of Cosimo I squashing a poor dolphin looks over the grounds. Pisa's navy ruled the seas at the time and Cosimo will have you know that even the dolphins were subject to his rule. You won;t see any ships of the Pisan navy or any naval knights, as they are both long gone, and Pisa no longer has access to the sea. There are many places around the Mediterranean that used to be ports, but now find themselves miles inland due to silting. We continue on to cross the Arno river on the Ponte di Mezzo. This bridge is the middle of town, and is the site of the first bridge in Pisa to span the Arno. The importance of the bridge was noted by the British and Americans during World War 2 and was destroyed by Allied bombers. The current bridge is serviceable but lacks that old world charm. However, it's not the bridge, but the view from the bridge that is worthwhile. We'll walk along the Arno to a little church called Santa Maria della Spina. This church was named as such because it was built to house a spine from the crown of thorns. The church is only open a few days per week, but the outside holds more to see than the inside. The thorn is no longer here and the inside of the church is just a single empty room. The ceiling is interesting, but otherwise the the view of the outside is the attraction. We head back across the Arno by way of a different bridge for our scenic stroll back to the Piazza dei Miracoli by way of the botanical gardens. Beyond the Bricks: The Leaning Tower of Pisa is a world famous landmark. Tours of all types stop at the Plaza of Miracles, usually for just long enough to get a few pictures, and if prior arrangements have been made, climb to the top of the tower. It's amazing that the reason that this particular bell tower has become the most famous in the world is simply because it is slowly falling over. Other towers have toppled, but this one has been saved from toppling by the investment of millions of dollars and years of efforts. Would people still come if they were to straighten it completely? Why that would ruin the effect, wouldn't it? The thing that I don't think most tourists realize until they are here, is that the tower is just one of three buildings of a huge cathedral complex. The cathedral and the baptistery are worth seeing as well as the museums that house the original art. The town of Pisa itself is an underrated destination also. Most of the churches in Europe were constructed and filled with art in a way to command attention and to attract parishioners. Pisa is no exception, except that they had no idea that the one thing that would command attention from people around the world is that they chose to build the tower upon unstable ground.  Walk along the Arno to the little church, Santa Maria della Spina To Whom did Gallileo give the Middle Finger?  Click on the Map to see the walk from Santa Croce to the Science Museum What you will see: Starting in the huge church Santa Croce we see a lot of tombs and funerary monuments to famous Renaisssance era people. on one side of the church you'll find the final resting place of Michaelangelo. Mike's art can be found in many places in Italy. While he grew up in Florence, he spent considerable time in Rome, as well as stints in Venice, Bologna, and elsewhere. He chose to be returned to Florence to be buried in the church that he grew up attending. The house where he grew up is a very short distance from the cathedral, and is today a tourist attraction. Opposite the tomb of Michaelangelo is the tomb of Galileo. While most of Michaelangelo's work was Biblical and therefore pleasing to the Church, the work of Galileo was anything but. When Galileo supported the theory of Copernicus, that is that the earth travels around the sun rather than the sun revolving around us, He fell out of favor with the church, He was eventually labeled a heretic and was excommunicated. He wqs not allowed to be buried inside the church. However centuries later, after it was proven by science that Gallileo had been right, his body was exhumed and buried in the elaborate tomb you see. You will also see the tombs of Machiavelli, Ghiberti, and Rossini, and tributes to Dante, a native of Florence who is buried in Ravenna, Italy. You'll also find an incredible display of art by artists such as Giotto, Gaddi, Gerini, Giovanni da Milano, and others that don't start with G. It is believed that the church was founded in the 13th century by Saint Francis. Much of Giotto's work is depicting events from the life of Francis. While at Santa Croce, you will also see architecture of Brunelleschi, and sculptures of Donatello. The walk ends at the Museum of Science, also calledr the Gallileo Museum. In a city known for its art and architecture, the Galileo Museum provides a change of pace. In this museum you will see clocks, globes and maps, pumps, and various devices and gadgets from the fields of chemistry and medicine. The museum covers science from 1000 to 1900 but the objects that garner the most attention are Galileo's telescopes and a jar with the middle finger of Galileo's right hand. What you won't see: When you stand in the Piazza di Santa Croce looking at the the 13th to 14th century cathedral, you don't see the original facade. If you walk to either side of the church you will see that the elaborate marble only covers the front. This facade was added in the 19th century, and bears a very prominent star of David. There are at least two back stories as to why. The designer of the facade was Nicolo Matas of Ancona. He's buried right there in front of the cathedrals main door. First story is that Nicolo was Jewish. He worked the huge star of David into his work because of his Jewish faith. He wanted to be buried inside the church with the other notable Florencians, but was denied because of his Jewish faith and buried just outside the door. Second story is that Nicolo was Christian, the star of David has a place in the Catholic tradition, and Nicolo chose to be buried outside, front and center because he considered the entire massive facade to be his tombstone. When you stand looking at the finger of Galileo, you won't see why something so disgusting is the most popular exhibit at this museum. You also won't see the rest of Galileo. The rest of him is in a tomb back at Santa Croce. But you didn't see him there either because he is in a box as he should be, not displayed in a jar. Beyond the Bricks: Regardless of whether Nicolo Matas was Jewish or Christian, he was not buried inside the church. And regardless of whether he regarded the facade as his tombstone or not, he was buried beneath the masterpiece that he put his heart into creating. In life, Galileo put his heart into science, and was originally denied burial inside the church. But when his science was proven correct, his heart went into the church, and all that he gave to science was the middle finger.  A Hole in the Wall in Florence  Click on the map to see the walk from The Hospital of the Innocents to The Duomo What you will see: Filippo Brunelleschi has been called the father of Renaissance architecture. His work can be seen all over Florence starting with his first major project, the hospital of the innocents. You don't have to look closely to see his most famous work, the dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Fiore, known commonly as the Duomo. By design, the Duomo dominates the skyline giving an already huge building impressive perspective. Our walk starts where Brunelleschi started, at the hospital of the innocents (Ospidale degli Innocentis). Built in the 1420's to provide a home for orphans, the hospital is considered the first Renaissance building. Enter the Museo degli Innocentis to see the stories of the babies left here over the centuries. Brunelleschi's next major project is just a short walk away. The Basilica of San Lorenzo claims to be the oldest church in Florence dating back to A.D. 393, but other churches in Florence make the same claim, and at any rate, San Lorenzo was completely rebuilt in the 1400's. Brunelleschi drew inspiration from the 1st century construction of the Pantheon in Rome to construct the much larger dome for San Lorenzo. Financing for the basilica's construction and for the art that would fill its interior came from the Medici's. The church became the base for the Medici family. By 1743 the basilica would be the final resting place for more than 50 members of the Medici family, their tombs, as well as statues, and other ornamentation being designed by the likes of Michaelangelo and Donatello. Our walk ends at Brunelleschi's last and most impressive design, the Duomo. Brunellecshi was able to create this dome, the largest by far at the time, by actually building two domes, one inside the other. If you haven't had enough exercise from our walk, you can proceed up 463 steps through a narrow passage way to the top of the dome. What you won't see: At he Hospital of the Innocents (an Orphanage) you won't see any orphans. The hospital stopped functioning as such in 1875. Today, you'll find the offices of local UNICEF headquarters. In the Basilica of San Lorenzo you will see the famous Michaelangelo designed tombs of the Medici's, but you won't see the tomb of Jesus. You wouldn't expect to, however, you will see a large open space in the middle of the Medici Chapels where they had intended to put the Holy Sepulchre. The Medici's wanted to buy the tomb of Jesus, and when their offer was refused, they tried to steal it. When you climb to the top of the Duomo, you will be rewarded with amazing views of the city of Florence. What you won't see in your view is Florence's most famous sight, that is the dome from which you are viewing. To get a view of Florence with its famous dome, you could climb the bell tower which is cheaper and has fewer steps, or you could go across the river to the Piazzale Michaelangelo, where you get a great view of the entire city for free and with no steps. Beyond the Bricks: There are no details as to how the Medici's attempted to buy, and then to steal the Holy Sepulchre. Put aside for a moment the question of motivation. Even with the best of intents, which is not likely, they were willing to break a commandment (thou shall not steal) in order to acquire it. But what really baffles me is the question of what exactly they were trying to acquire. For starters, no one knows where the tomb of Jesus actually is. There are at least two sites in Jerusalem that claim to be the tomb of Jesus, and there is a good possibility that neither of them are the true location. So, if they wanted to buy/steal one of these sites the problem arises that they are sites, not objects. If you look at the Garden Tomb, it fits the description in the Bible. It's a cave; an empty space surrounded by rock; a hole in the wall. And even if this is the correct hole in the wall, Jesus is not there anymore. That's the whole point. He rose up and left. When the disciples came on that Sunday morning and found that he had risen, they went home. They didn't mark the spot or venerate the cave in any way. What would the Medici's have bought or stolen? In this case, all that lies beyond the bricks is empty space.   What's Real Anyway
What you will see will see:
The east doors of the St. John Baptistery are 17 feet tall, 3 ton, ten-paneled, bronze works of art. They were created in the mid 15th century by Lorenzo Ghiberti who had won a competition to create the less impressive north doors of the same building. The east doors display in relief sculpture, 10 scenes from the Old Testament from Adam to Solomon, as well as 24 protruding busts of prophets (with one bust a self-portrait of the artist). Ghiberti was inspired by the work of Donatello in creating these doors which he left simply titled as; the east doors. But another turtle, Michaelangelo, found inspiration from Ghiberti's work and gave them the name: "Gates of Paradise". The bottom left panel is a depiction of David conquering Goliath. Donatello had created a couple of sculptures of David, both of which can be seen at the Museo Nazionale del Bargelo here in Florence. Michaelangelo would then later create the most famous "David" and perhaps the most famous sculpture in the world. We will see that sculpture at the end of our walk in the Piazza della Signoria. What you won't see: You won't see the original sculptures, at least not on this walk. Both pieces have been moved indoors for their protection from the elements and flying furniture. The Gates of Paradise were moved into the Duomo Museum in 1990 and David was moved into the Academia Museum after a bench thrown out of a window during a riot, knocked his left arm off in the 19th century. You will see replicas, but these fakes do hold one advantage over the originals. They are located in the original and therefore intended location. When you view the originals, you will have to be content to see the art from a crowd, roped off, behind glass, from a distance, and out of the environment of its intended audience. The Gates of Paradise located on the east side of the baptistery served as a focal point for the entire Renaissance. Beyond their impact on the world of art, they provided the stories of the Bible to a populace that was unable to read them for themselves. Even if they were literate, Bibles were scarce, expensive, and not available in Italian. The doors were a religious focal point for the people of Florence. The fake statue of David stands guard where the original was placed just a few feet from where Savonarola tried to rid the city of art and where the city rid themselves of Savonarola. You don't have to see the originals in order to put yourself in the shoes of the original audience and learn something "off the wall". Beyond the Bricks: Is it just me or is there something off about Michaelangelo's David? The story of David and Goliath is one where a small young boy with a sling was able to slay a giant because he had faith in God. To this day, referring to a David and Goliath situation means something small and unlikely overcoming something large and powerful. The David carved by Michaelangelo is 18 feet tall and rippling with muscles. Other than having a youthful face, this more resembles Goliath than David. Well.. that's just my thought... I can get past it and enjoy art for art's sake. Bonfire of the Vanities Neptune Statue in Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy
What you will see:
The city of Florence is the center of The Renaissance, and the Piazza della Signoria is the main civic center of Florence. As such, this square and nearby museums are bursting with art, and bustling with tourists. The square almost feels like an open-air sculpture museum. It includes many pre-renaissance and pagan statues as well as a fake "David" statue located on the spot where the authentic "David" statue resided for centuries. Located about 10 paces in front of a Neptune sculpture is a man-hole sized "plaque" inlaid in the pavement. There's writing on the disk which I've been told is Italian. It looks like Latin to me, but I don't understand Latin or Italian, so it may as well be jibberish. Even knowing the English translation doesn't make the plaque impressive or attention-grabbing. The plaque reads: "Here, Girolamo Savonarola and his Dominican brothrers were hanged and burned in the year (1498)" First question that pops up in my mind is: why both hanged and burned? Was someone trying to kill these guys twice? What you won't see: Several centuries before Girolamo Savonarola and his brethren were killed twice in Florence for heresy, there was another Dominican named Giovanni, but better known as Francis, who had preached many of the same values as Savonarola. In 1209 Francis taught his followers a simple rule known as the "primitive rule": "Follow the teachings of our Lord Jesus Christ, and walk in His footsteps". Francis and his followers renounced all wealth and strove to help the poor. Francis presented his ideas to the Pope and was granted permission to form a new order, and today we have the Franciscan Order. Savonarola also renounced worldly possessions, and in particular, sought to be rid of art and music. Savonarola would hold "bonfires of the vanities" in Piazza della Signoria on the spot that now bears the aforementioned plaque. Followers of Savonarola (some might call them reluctant subjects) were invited (compelled) to bring their paintings, musical instruments, playing cards, etc to the town square and cast them upon the great bonfire. The fact that buyers in Venice and elsewhere were eager to buy these items, the proceeds of which could have gone to help the poor, was disregarded. The Pope tolerated Savonarola to a point, but rather than go to the Pope to request permission to from a new order, Savonarola publicly denounced the corruption of the Papal court. (if you want to know how the Popes feel about art, just visit the Vatican Museums to see one of the most extensive art collections in the world). Savonarola was excommunicated. Almost immediately after Francis died, he was made a saint, and a giant cathedral was built in his honor in Assisi. The walls of the cathedral are elaborately painted to depict not only the life of Christ but also the life of Francis. Relics of Francis have been preserved here, and the order he formed bears his name. People make pilgrimages to Assisi to see the art and architecture of the cathedral and to venerate Francis' bones. I don't think that Francis would be at all happy about these things. His message was to follow the teachings of Jesus and to walk in His footsteps, not to have people follow him or to have his life presented in parallel to Christ's. Savonarola would not have wanted these things either. The Pope did not want Savonarola to be venerated like Francis had been, nor did he want him to even be remembered. So, after Savonarola died (by hanging) his body was burned, and the remains were tossed into the Arno river. Today, the square where Savonarola attempted to rid the world of art with his "bonfires of the vanities" is littered with sculptures, and two of the world's great art museums are next door (the Uffizi, and the Academia). Savonarola would not be happy about that, but at least the centerpiece of the art show is a Biblical piece by Michaelangelo (David). There are no statues of Savonarola and no churches named for him, but his relics are there to "see" if you look beyond the bricks. (o.k. beyond the water) Beyond the Bricks: Today the Piazza della Signoria in the heart of Florence is full of sites for fans of art and architecture, and yet, if you look around you will see countless people taking selfies and otherwise distracted on their cell phones. Try to imagine a roaring bonfire in the middle of the square and all these people lining up to cast their phones upon the fire. You too will be expected to toss your vanities into the flames. Now imagine a world without the distraction of cell phones. It's not going to happen, just as Savonarola was not successful of ridding Florence of art. But you could put the phone away and enjoy the fruits of Savonarola's failure. Enjoy the art, you're in Florence. Week A'Way Florence, Italy Every day starts with enjoying a cup of "Volcanica Coffee" as we dive in to God's Word. Read the Bible daily with us and join the conversation on "The Daily Way". Then we take a walk around our "neighborhood". We get off the treadmill and exercise our minds as well as our bodies. We dive-in to a different city each week as we strive to look "beyond the bricks" to gain a unique perspective for well-known sites, as well as for sites where there is nothing to "see". Knowing the back-story is what makes a site interesting. When a site has multiple back-stories, it gets really interesting. Without the back-story, ruins are confusing, buildings are just bricks, and you have no perspective on that which is no longer there. "The Daily Walk" is not a guide book, although we have those resources available to you. click Here for guides to over 700 cities worldwide including the city featured in this week's walks. Each day we will provide you with a Google map with a pinpoint of the location for our walk. Drag and drop the little guy into the map and take a look around for yourself. There will be a lot to see; too much for us to cover in this blog. We are going to focus on just one story each day. Monday through Thursday we will present a back-story "seen" on our walk through the "Week A'Way city. On Friday we'll venture out on a side-trip to a nearby attraction. Saturday, our back-story will focus on the culture, souvenir shopping, or food and wine. On Sunday, we'll look at the back-story of a "church". Many well-known churches have become more of a museum and a sight-seeing destination than a place of worship. When this is the case, the building is just a big pile of bricks. We'll look beyond the bricks to see the place as it was originally intended.
Spend this "Week A'Way" with us in Florence, Italy Destination Guide for Florence Italy Explore Activities in Florence with Viator |
   The Daily Walklooks for stories beyond the bricks that you see. Places are interesting because of the back story. Sometimes the back story explains that which you see, and sometimes the back story gives you a perspective when there is nothing to see. ArchivesCategories |
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